LTV???

As in… “lick the vessel” CLEAN. Seriously.

Could mac and cheese be that good??? This is the most American of comfort foods. It’s not something I ever order when dining out, nor want to admit I’m even interesting in trying to master.  But, this is a dish for that cozy occasion when just nothing else will do.  Even our founding father, Thomas Jefferson, decided it was worthy of being served in the White House. Young or old, most of us wouldn’t turn down a perfect spoonful.

But our very American interest in convenience has taken this classic side dish to unrecognizable concoctions- the day glow orange, processed, boxed meal that parents feed to their kids. The Kraft company boasts of selling more than one million boxes a day. Is that really food? A meal?

I decided it was worth recreating this all time favorite, searching for a perfect balance of soft, rich, smoky, spicy, chewy and crunchy qualities. The LTV  packs a definitive punch. This version has enough merit to be complex. For mac and cheese, that’s a challenge. I’ve taken a classic sauce Mornay and gussied it up. I added dry mustard and worchestershire for background flavor, canned chipotles in adobo for a smoky bite, and believe it or not, a touch of liquid smoke as it enhances the chiles nicely. Tillamook’s vintage aged white sharp cheddar is the perfect cheese to round out the flavor of this sauce. For a crunchy top, I sauteed breadcrumbs in a bit of garlic and butter.

Although some could make this an entire meal, it only seems reasonable to suggest adding  something a bit more healthy as well. Dark and leafy greens perhaps, or peas, beans or asparagus with lemon.  A bit of wine can go a long way to cut the richness. Perhaps it’s all about balance. One can indulge in a dish as rich and scrumptious as this, but keeping portions small, is wise.

Now, I realize, there are those out there who covet their recipes, keeping their secrets close at hand, not to be out done, minimized. But what fun is there in that? We all know how important it is to share. And at least it may guarantee that perhaps some evening at a friend’s dinner table, when it is announced that their special family recipe for macaroni and cheese is being served, you won’t have to politely squirm through dinner systematically removing the contents of your dinner plate into the napkin in your lap.

LTV Macaroni and Cheese

This recipe makes (1) 9×13 pan, and (1) 6×12 oval or 8×8 square
It works well to make a portion to bake immediately, and to freeze the rest for another time. If freezing, don’t put the breadcrumbs on top until you are ready to bake it.

Make the sauce: you can make this ahead and rewarm it in a pot while you cook the pasta.
Make a brown roux by melting the butter over medium heat until just starting to color, sprinkle the flour over the butter and stir well. Reduce the heat to medium low and let the roux cook for a few minutes, stirring. Add the garlic and the mustard and continue stirring for another couple of minutes. Your liquids should be in a glass measuring cup with a pour spout. With your whisk in one hand,  slowly pour about half of the liquids into the roux, whisking constantly as the mixture will thicken quickly. Once you have smoothed out any lumps, add the rest of the liquid. Whisk until smooth. Add the rest of your ingredients, adjusting the salt and pepper to your taste. Add the cheese in portions, tasting as you go, to find the right balance that works for you.

Make the breadcrumbs. I use leftover baguettes that have dried out, slice them and either use a rolling pin to partially smash them, or a food processor if you’re careful not to make powder. Melt the butter in a saute pan, add the garlic, stir, then add the breadcrumbs  and saute until just beginning to turn golden.

Prepare the vessels: In a large bowl, mix your warm sauce and cool pasta. Portion into your oven safe pans and sprinkle on the breadcrumbs (if baking right away.) Cook in a 350 degree oven for 30 minutes. The top should be just browning on the edges, and bubbling.

Now, eat your greens and remember to share.

Need I say more?

Liquid gold. Nirvana in a cup. A heavenly gift.

Drinking chocolate is all the rage. It’s front page news. We are not reading about hot chocolate. We are guided by lists of what, where, how, and when we can get a cup of drinking chocolate. Does the movie Chocolat come to mind? Vianne (Juliette Binoche) creates a sensational cup of magic for her customers that seems to heal. Her fellow Parisians have been ordering up drinking chocolate at Angelina’s, Cafe de Flore and Les Deux Magots for over a century. And now Portland has finally caught on to serving up this special brew.

Although recipes and techniques vary, the idea is to melt bittersweet chocolate with just enough milk and cream in order to hold your tongue captive for as long as possible, slowly releasing it down your throat and saturating it with pleasure. Why else bother? The calories alone demand serious consideration. Every gram must deliver.

For all of those chocolate lovers who have wonderful artisanal brands like Scharffen Berger, Valrhona and Dagoba in their pantry, you’re set to go. Some are happy with Ghirardelli, Baker’s and Nestle. Whatever your preference, buy the best that you can. It makes all the difference. Everyone in my family is a chocoholic. Therefore, I always have a good chunk of my favorite powerhouse brand around, Callebaut bittersweet, to please any craving.

So, when the need arises (and I did say ‘need,’ not ‘mood’) consider fixing the most incredible way to deliver that deep, dark, intense chocolate experience. And as we drag ourselves deeper into the chilly and blustery days of winter, you’ll now have a reason to head to your warm kitchen instead of putting on all those layers and heading outside in search of that magic.

Drinking Chocolate

makes about 3 cups

Melt the chocolate in a double boiler over medium to low heat. I do this with the chocolate in a stainless steel bowl set over a saucepan. Remove the bowl from the pan, stir the chocolate until smooth, and then whisk in the water to blend.

In another bowl, stir the cocoa powder to break up any lumps, then mix in a few tablespoons of the milk to make a smooth paste. Add the rest of the liquids and the salt, mixing thoroughly.

Now, whisk the milk and cocoa mixture into the bowl of melted chocolate and stir until smooth, then return the mixture to the warm pan used for the double boiler (having poured out the remaining hot water first!) Stir over medium low heat until hot.

Note: I adapted this recipe from one of my favorite cookbooks recommended to me by one of my favorite cooks—Karen Lynn. In her book, Sunday Supers at Lucques, Suzanne Goin uses equal parts milk and cream in her recipe. I didn’t dare try that concoction, I wasn’t brave enough, and yet still found my version outrageously good.

The perfect Sunday morning waffle. Named so because you will keep the waffle iron working all morning until you are satisfied. These are so light and creamy and perfect, that it will take quite a few to get you there. Yet, it all must begin the night before. Planning ahead is essential for the yeast to mingle, grow and create the perfect texture-light, moist and chewy. These are not the big, dry, cardboard variety you find all too often—impostors for sure. These are the real deal.

I found this recipe about 30 years ago and have been amazed by how simple and consistent it has been. Margaret Fox, the owner of Cafe Beaujolais in Mendocino, California from 1977-2000  served these waffles to her loyal customers. As ownership has turned over twice since then, I have no idea if they are still on the menu. Since finding this recipe, however, I have come across it several times since in various cookbooks, correctly attributing it to her genius.

As usual with waffles, these are best served with warm maple syrup, and perhaps a sliced banana or two on the side. More times than not, I have ended up standing in the kitchen,  plucking my waffle straight out of the iron, breaking it into quarters, and dipping each portion into the syrup with my fingers. Why bother with a plate? They are best eaten immediately with fingers. Make sure to wash up well before tackling the Sunday paper.

Raised waffles for Sunday morning

makes about a dozen waffles (in an old fashioned 8″ round waffle iron)

This batter is fairy quick to put together. You need to make it in the evening as to be able to enjoy the waffles in the morning.  Choose a large bowl to start as the batter may double in volume.

Put the water in the bowl, sprinkle in the yeast and stir to combine. Add the sugar and let sit about 5 minutes. Place a small saucepan on the stove with the butter to melt it, then add the milk. Heat through until warm, not hot. I don’t have a microwave, but you could use that method instead.

Add the warmed milk and melted butter to the yeast mixture along with the flour and salt. Beat until smooth.

You will be adding the eggs and baking soda in the morning. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave on the counter overnight.

In the morning, just before you’re ready to cook the waffles, add the eggs and baking soda. The batter will be thin. Don’t worry. The waffles will cook up beautifully!

Any leftover batter, hard to imagine, can be kept in the refrigerator for several days.

Bon appetit!

]]> http://www.foodstylistlucy.com/InTheKitchen/2009/12/27/sunday-morning-waffles/feed/ 0 http://www.foodstylistlucy.com/InTheKitchen/2009/07/09/a-pie-with-a-past/ http://www.foodstylistlucy.com/InTheKitchen/2009/07/09/a-pie-with-a-past/#comments Thu, 09 Jul 2009 20:01:36 +0000 Lucy http://www.foodstylistlucy.com/blog/?p=152

MY GIRLFRIEND, Miss Mavis Brown, arrived on Thanksgiving day last year with her venerable chocolate pie. She had made it once before and was overwhelmed by how incredibly good it was, but noted that it had a tendency to be a bit “sloppy.” Seeing the look of concern on my face, she quickly followed with… “but I’ll bet it was because I hadn’t let it chill overnight first.”  The pie in her hands was thoughtfully chilled overnight, and just needed it’s topping and chocolate shavings. As the evening rolled by, I found myself at the table in conversation while the desserts were being enjoyed in the kitchen. I noticed that the kitchen was now more crowded than the table. I missed the pie’s debut, making it to the kitchen just in time to see the remnants. What was left was a loose mass of chocolate goo. And nobody seemed to care. I learned much from that pie. First-guests will usually eat anything made from chocolate. Second- it was so tasty, it didn’t matter what it looked like. Third, always read through a recipe before assuming it will work. 

When I was a kid, my favorite neighborhood restaurant was the Yum Yum Tree. Funny how I never questioned the absurdity of that name. Blame it on the pie. Their pies had a serious following. My favorite: the English Toffee pie. I can still recall it in sweet detail, and have found similar recipes for a “French Silk Pie” but haven’t hit the jackpot. I’ve come close, but Miss Brown’s pie gave me the shortcut to perfection. I tweaked a few things, and now have a pie that is better than what I loved as a kid, and works better than the original recipe did for Mavis.

So how can I still be rambling on and on about a pie…? Let me just describe it to you. First, you make a crust with chocolate wafers, butter and sugar. Bake that until it’s crispy, then sprinkle in some chopped bittersweet chocolate and let that melt. Spread that around and then chill it. That layer will keep the crust crunchy. While the crust is baking, make a bittersweet chocolate pudding. Give it a quick chill, then add into the pie crust. Next, whip up some cream with espresso powder, and put that over the top of the pudding. Sprinkle on some chocolate shavings and now consider that it’s going to have to be hidden soon or else it will be gone. At my house, we have to score the pie, making clear, equal divisions of ownership so everyone is accountable. Serious stuff that pie.

Some of the steps along the way…

Bittersweet Chocolate Mocha Cream Pie
makes a 9 inch pie

Set the oven to 350. Make cookie crumbs in the food processor, add the sugar, then the butter and process until crumbs are evenly moistened. Press the crumb mixture onto the bottom and sides of a 9″ pie dish. Bake until the crust is set and is no longer moist, about 12-15 minutes. Remove from the oven, and sprinkle the chocolate over the bottom of the crust. Let stand a few minutes until the chocolate softens, then spread over the bottom and sides of the crust to cover. No need to go all the way up to the top of the rim. Chill until set, about 30 minutes.

Whisk sugar, cocoa, cornstarch and salt to blend in a heavy medium saucepan. Gradually add 1/3 cup of the milk and whisk to form a smooth batter. In a small bowl, break up the egg yolks with a fork, and whisk in 1 cup of the remaining milk. Add this to the saucepan, along with the rest of the milk and the cream. Turn on the heat to medium, and using a flat-bottomed wooden spoon or heatproof spatula, stir constantly until the mixture is thick and smooth, about 5 minutes. It will begin to bubble at the edges. Take the pudding off of the heat, and add the chocolate and vanilla. Let the pudding cool about 1 hour on the counter, then stir well, and fill into the cooled pie shell. Cover with plastic, and re-chill the pie at least 3 hours before serving. Can be made 2 days ahead.

Using an electric mixer, whip the cream with the espresso powder and sugar until soft peaks form. Continue to beat just until stiff enough to hold it’s shape. Spread over the pie and sprinkle with chocolate. You can  assemble the pie about 8 hrs. ahead if desired. It keeps it’s structure and crunch into the next day, if you are so lucky.

Now go and find a place to hide it.

IS IT ME, or do you too conjure up goofy images when you think of coconuts? Gilligan’s Island? Coconut shell bikini tops? Tropical drinks with straws on the half shell? Coconuts falling from a tree and bouncing off Curly’s head from a Three Stooges skit? Tropical=casual=fun. Although the coconut has a laid back attitude-who is going to take it seriously when you need a mallet and lots of determination just to get at it’s exotic, sweet flesh?!- it does have some amazing nutritional and beneficial properties. It’s value is overlooked in our newly marketed dietary guidelines, but you may want to think twice before assuming it’s not healthy. I poked around a bit just to get reacquainted with what I had learned as a young consumer growing up in Hawaii.

Organic Facts website declares:

The health benefits of coconut oil include hair care, skin care, stress relief, maintaining cholesterol levels, weight loss, increased immunity, proper digestion and metabolism, relief from kidney problems, heart diseases, high blood pressure, diabetes, HIV and cancer, dental care, and bone strength. Coconut oil is often preferred by athletes and body builders and by those who are dieting. The reason behind this being that coconut oil contains lesser calories than other oils, its fat content is easily converted into energy and it does not lead to accumulation of fat in the heart and arteries. Coconut oil helps in boosting energy and endurance, and enhances the performance of athletes.

For those of you who love coconut regardless and want to enjoy it in close to pure form, try it in a macaroon. I remember making this cookie long ago using only shredded coconut, sweetened condensed milk and vanilla. This macaroon is more confection than cookie, really. So, recently, I experimented with bringing more variety of texture and more flavor to the macaroon and tried to keep it still pure but simple. No egg whites folded in and no flour to stretch the batter. I used three different kinds of coconut and toasted two of them before mixing them with the sweetened condensed milk. The flavor is more intense and the texture more dense and chewy. You may also try dipping some of the macaroons in bittersweet chocolate as the picture above shows. Those didn’t last long in my kitchen.

Coconut Macaroons

Turn the oven on to 350, sprinkle unsweetened coconut (both) onto a parchment lined baking sheet and toast in the warming oven until light golden in color. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, mix the sweetened coconut with the condensed milk and vanilla. Add the toasted coconut to the bowl and mix evenly. Using your fingers, grab a tablespoonful of the mixture and make a mound on the parchment. You can place the mixture somewhat close together as they really don’t spread that much. I have found that if your fingers are dampened with water, the mixture doesn’t stick.

Bake the macaroons for 20-30 minutes depending on how toasted you like them. I prefer to have them crunchy on the outside and softer in the middle-this takes about 25-30 minutes. Let cool on the sheet pan about 15 minutes, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely before storing. They will harden as they cool.

Keep in mind that once these are stored in an air tight container, they do soften up. You can refresh their exterior crunch by popping them into a toaster oven for a few minutes first, then let them cool. Yum!

I AM SO CRAZY for quince. I may have mentioned that in my last entry which heralded their virtues. I have been devouring all that jam and jelly I had made last year but unfortunately it won’t be long now before it’s all gone. It was the largest batch of anything I had ever made, so much so that I shared quite a bit for Christmas gifts. Luckily, I planned to make the most of the 25 pound box of quince that I had bought at a local farm so along with the jam, jelly and preserves making last fall, I put up some quince vodka, or ‘Ratafia. ‘

To alleviate the disappointment of my dwindling supply of jam, I simply open up the pantry, and am instantly reminded of the pleasures yet to come- long, warm days and cool summer cocktails. Stored in the dark, among the cans and bottles on the bottom shelf, is a large eight quart jar filled with quince ratafia ‘to be.’ It has been sitting in there for three months now with the intention of being there for another five.

But what fun is that? Testing and tasting is part of the cooks business and education. So, for the sake of the picture and my curiosity, I made a couple of cocktails last week to celebrate the Ratafia’s three month infusion in my pantry. The perfume was already present. The color is rich persimmon, just like the jelly. I have made this Ratafia once before and did manage to let it age for a year. I am surprised to find so much depth of color and flavor after just these past months. Cocktails made from quince Ratafia have such an exotic perfume that just a squeeze of Meyer lemon is all that is needed when seving it over ice. You could add a splash of sparkling mineral water as well. Garnish with a slice of lemon, put your feet up and let the evening roll on in.

My friend Carol shared this recipe with me. The batch that got me hooked was aged for a year. She confirms that the flavor is directly affected by the ripeness and freshness of the quince. When they are at their absolute peak of giving off their perfume it is best to make your Ratafia. Ratafia is a liqueur most likely found in French farmhouses- farmers using the plentiful nuts and local stone fruits growing on their land. The Italians make a similar liquer using lemons-limoncello. Basically, you just infuse the fruit with sugar (and spices if you wish,) pour in the alcohol and let it ripen for a few months in a cool, dark place.

Carol’s Quince Ratafia

THE ANCIENT QUINCE…..kind of a mystery fruit.  Neither an apple nor a pear, but of the same Rose family. This was the chosen fruit for the symbol of fertility by the ancient Greeks, who dedicated them to Aphrodite, the goddess of love. Quince are native to the area between the Caspian and Black Seas, namely Turkey, Iran and Southern Georgia. Their popularity brought them to South America, Australia, New Zealand and the Mediterranean, where they are commonly eaten raw as well as cooked.

In North America, Quince are on the specialty fruit list, with very few trees in production. Unlike apples and pears which are enjoyed right off the tree with their sweetness,  these bright yellow fruit are very hard, acidic and not naturally sweet. Instead, they are turned into marmalade, jam, jelly and preserves. To me, their flavor is similar to a guava, especially when made into jelly. They give off a wonderful perfume when ripe, close to the smell of roses, so keep a few in a bowl to fragrance the room. When cooked, they turn light pink, and their cooking liquid turns to a deep crimson hue.  If you are lucky enough to get your hands on any of them next Fall, I’ll share a few ways to make the most of them.

Quince jelly, jam and preserves are a rare treat. I found a 25 pound box at a local farm, and set out to make all three. I’m now struggling to keep a few jars for myself, as they have ended up as perfect Christmas gifts this year. The idea of giving something from the kitchen has been so much more appealing and satisfying in it’s simplicity than trudging along the retail trail.  Winter has just gotten a whole lot sweeter.

For those of us who are fully engaged with the pleasures and benefits of the jam and jelly making business, working with quince is quite rewarding. These hard, knobby fruit are tough to cut, but are full of natural pectin, and therefore, one can make jelly and jam with the same batch of fruit. For the following recipe, I give ratios of fruit to sugar. That way, you can make however much you want, depending upon your supply of quince. If you haven’t made jam or jelly before, you may need a primer. Google is great for that-try wikipedia. For those of you who do make jam and jelly, you will need to have your jars and lids ready, and won’t need any pectin.

Quince jelly and jam

To make a supply of both jam and jelly from one batch of fruit,  rub off any fuzz and debris from the fruit, and wash them in a colander. Fill a preserving pot halfway with water and a squeeze of lemon juice. Fill a medium sized saucepan with water and set it next to the pot. Cut the quince into quarters and with each quarter flat on one side, cut off the core. Now cut each quarter into 1/4″ to 1/2″ slices and put them in the preserving pot. Put the cores into the saucepan. Add any debris from the fruit- seeds, stems or ends-and add them to the saucepan. Make sure there is about an inch of water covering all the fruit in each pot. Bring both pans to a slow simmer and cook, partially covered for about an hour, or until the fruit is soft. Make sure you keep the water level above the fruit. The cores and stems liquid carry additional pectin, and you will use this to add to the fruit to make jam.

When the fruit is soft, strain the water from the fruit through cheesecloth or a muslin bag, careful not to squeeze or push any remaining liquid out as it will turn the jelly cloudy.  Now you are ready to make jelly and jam.  I used a vanilla bean to flavor my jam. It was excellent. Just cut one in half and scrape the seeds into the pot along with the pod.

For jelly-use equal parts by weight for the fruit and sugar

In a clean pot, add your measured quince liquid and sugar. Stir to dissolve and bring to a boil. Cook this mixture for about an hour, or until it has turned into a jelly state, and the color has turned crimson. Ladle into sterilized jars. Jelly will keep for about 1 year.

For jam-use 2 parts fruit to 1 part sugar by weight

Weigh and mash the cooked fruit, transfer to a clean pot, and add the sugar. Mix well, and add about 1 cup of the pectin liquid you made from the cores per 4-5 lbs of fruit. Stir well and bring to a slow simmer. Cook the jam for about 40 minutes, and stir the bottom occasionally to prevent sticking. The jam should be thick and rose colored after this time. Preserve in sterilized jars.

IT FEELS GOOD to sit here this morning, in a quiet house, cup of tea keeping me warm while I get back to writing. The past two months have been devoted to taking care of the family. Not much creative kitchen energy emerged during that time…just sustenance. My biggest fan passed away. My mom. The queen of culinary standards. We grew up on her love of quality food-and learned to be comfortable cooks as we experimented on our own.  It’s no wonder that she spent her last few months only wanting the fresh fruits of summer and the home baking coming out of her daughter’s kitchens. Mom left us in style, just as she lived, and what a great feeling it was to be able to share that comfort and love with her.

Our food memories permeate the years past, held collectively by our stories, binding us and lending weight to who we are and how we have steered ourselves into the present. This realization became so evident last night at my dinner table as my sister passionately described some key food events when we were kids that I know have shaped the way we both now cook for our families.  She described in great detail specific dishes that my mom would make that we did not get to enjoy because we were “kids!” We had tv dinners on those Saturday nights when mom would make something special for her and my father. Dishes like crab souffle, Cornish game hens with mandarin orange sauce and lemon meringue ice cream pie. In truth, we probably would have turned up our noses at such dishes, but the notion that they were “off limits” still stings.

My kids have never tasted a tv dinner. Do they still make them?  But,  I was a kid in the 60’s and 70’s. That food was innovative for moms and fun for kids. Not now. Real food is easy, simple and a heck of a lot more fun to cook. We are surrounded by amazing quality choices-farmers markets, local grocery stores, CSA’s and of course, our own gardens. Role modeling in the kitchen is incredibly important. Teaching our kids some basic skills seems obvious. Get them involved, and keep it interesting. Cooking is,  after all, synonymous with love, nurturing and pride.

The following recipes have been coming out of my kitchen for years. They are some of the most often requested from my friends. My morning tea (believe it or not), lemon ginger muffins and  plum cake. I seem to have a definite penchant for bakery items.

Morning Tea

I am a huge fan of Chai. I used to make it religiously on a daily basis. I started the spice infusion with the water at night, then reduced the milk a bit in the morning, blending the two with the tea for an incredibly comforting pot to share with friends and family. One summer a few years back, I decided milk wasn’t so great for me, and it just was too heavy for a summer pot. I now make a lighter, simpler and healthier version that works just great.

Put the kettle on, and warm up your teapot with hot water. Have ready 3 bags of strong, black tea (I use Trader Joe’s Irish Breakfast Tea) and 1 bag of Chai ( I use Stash Tea – my client.)  When the water boils, put the bags in the warmed pot, and fill up the water level to about 2/3 full.  I add a blend of grain milks-Pacific Foods rice, soy and oat. They used to make a multi-grain milk, but now I have to make my own.  I use equal parts of the three to make about 1 1/2 cups. Ratio wise I end up with about 2/3 tea water to 1/3 milk. Scald the milks in a small saucepan (or microwave) and add to the pot. Voila!

Lemon Ginger Muffins
These dense muffins have a sweet and tangy flavor that scream summer–which means they taste even better in the winter! Try to find Meyer lemons-their perfume is highlighted in a muffin like this.

Makes 12 18-20 minutes at 375

Preheat the oven to 375.

Butter or paper line a 12 cup muffin pan.

Cream the butter and sugar together until smooth and light. Using a microplane grater, zest the lemons right into the bowl. Do the same with the ginger. Mix again until blended.

Add the eggs one at a time until blended. Measure the yogurt or buttermilk into at least a 2 cup measure. Add the ¼ cup lemon juice, and mix well. Measure out the flour and fold in 1/3 of it into the batter. Now stir the baking soda into the liquid measure and stir. It will foam up. Pour ½ of the yogurt mixture into the batter and blend. Add another 1/3 of the flour and then the rest of the yogurt, blending gently with each addition. Fold in the remaining flour and portion into the muffin tins.

Bake the muffins for 18-20 minutes or until they are just firm on top. Let them rest for about 10 minutes, then gently pry them out and dip the tops into the glaze. Eat while still warm!

Fresh Plum Cake

I have been sharing this cake for so many years that I don’t remember where the recipe came from. It is one of those cakes that just hits the spot with the crispy, buttery edges that melt into the sweet and spicy plum juices. A very simple cake to put together, and therefore to pack in portions to make later for an overnight weekend stay.

Plums: 2 pounds ripe plums (Italian prune work well)

¾ c. sugar

1 t. cinnamon

½ t. gr. ginger

½ t. gr. coriander

Cut plums into halves or quarters depending on size. Toss with sugar and spices and set aside.

Cake: 1 cup sugar

1 cup flour

2 t. baking powder

¼ t. salt

1 cup milk, rm temp.

1 t. vanilla extract

½ t. almond extract

½ cup butter, cut into 4 pieces

Whisk all together except butter. Set oven to 350. Put the butter in 9 x 12 baking pan and place the pan in the oven to melt the butter. When the butter is bubbling, pour the batter in and then scatter plums and their juices over the batter evenly. Bake 50 minutes.

…OF OUR LABOR, in the garden of course, is a lovely act indeed. Although outside it’s Augtober, crazy days of sun and rain,  the produce is ripening and the offerings are abundant and everyone seems to be sharing. Friends of mine run a wonderful nursery tucked within the area of commercial design shops around the old Norm Thompson building in Northwest Portland. Peter has a natural, graceful hand at growing plants and nurturing them to their full beauty.   His nursery is filled with clever choices of unique and handsome plants. With a handful of admirers popping in daily to talk shop and lend a hand, Peter has created quite a following. So in perfect style, he and Karen have been cooking and sharing a midday meal in the garden weekly, using some of the seasonal produce grown just for that purpose.

Last week they shared a meal of Ratatouille and Osso Bucco. Upon hearing the menu last week, I raised my eyebrows a bit, considering the cooking involved with these complex dishes (and reportedly a wheelbarrow is involved!) Karen reminded me that they started out a while back with hot dogs, but as the season progressed, and the vegetables ripened, they’ve stepped it up a bit. They now know how to pull off an amazing spread in the nursery garden, toasting friends and neighbors and sharing.

Ratatouille, a classic vegetable stew,  originated from Nice, France and focuses on eggplant, squash and tomatoes–basically utilizing the summer vegetables of the southern region. Many cooks add bell peppers, onions or shallots, basil, and olive oil to round out the flavors. The method of coaxing the most flavor from these vegetables varies. I tend to believe that sauteing each one separately in good olive oil until some browning occurs, caramelizes the juices and brings out more flavor. They get combined in a heavy pot, doused with more olive oil and herbs and cooked slowly together to meld flavors. This dish, like the Italian version, Caponata, is great with fish, omelets or with cannellini beans, couscous, rice or polenta.

Ratatouille

Cut the zuchinni, eggplant, peppers and tomatoes into bite sized chunks. Leave the cherry tomatoes whole. Sprinkle the eggplant and zucchini with salt and leave in a colander to weep for about a half hour. Blot dry.

Warm a heavy, oven proof pot over medium heat and add a couple tablespoons of olive oil–always heat the pan first, adding the oil after. Add some of the eggplant and zucchini one layer high, and cook in batches until just starting to color, seasoning each layer as you go with the salt and pepper. Remove each batch when done onto a plate. Add more oil, then the shallots, garlic and peppers to the pot. Season with the salt and pepper, and cook for another 4-5 minutes or until softened and just starting to color. Add the tomatoes, and mix well. Let this mixture cook another 5 minutes. Sprinkle in the herbs, then add the eggplant and zucchini back to the pot. Stir well and add the remaining olive oil to the pot. Cover and place in the oven to cook for about a half hour. Check to see if the stew has too much liquid. If so, remove the lid to help the juices evaporate. Test again after another half hour. Your ratatouille should be thick, with enough concentrated juices and oil to keep it moist.

Cheers!