French copper pots cook the best food. Every good kitchen needs one. Not only elegant and beautiful, they hold a steady heat and build a dish’s depth and character.  So I went to France to collect one.

St. Amand De Coly is a quaint, picture perfect, tiny village in the upper Dordogne region of France. Home of the humble, non-English speaking Dinandier, Alain Lagorsse. He is an “Artisan of Art,” or  a brazier who makes functional and decorative objects out of copper and tin. My guy. I reseached him before we left, and didn’t really expect to make it all happen. I wasn’t really going just for the copper pot.

Because it was within an hour’s drive North of Sarlat, and much more fun to meet the atisan in person instead of buying a piece from the reputably arrogant Parisian sellers of stellar chef ware, Dehillerin, we were determined to go.  We started our day wandering the narrow, cobbled streets of Sarlat, the swashbuckling town of the almost 1000 year old Saturday Market. Do you need more of a reason to go? The food was outstanding-everything you could ever want in season, and then all the cheeses, olives, meats, the famed foie gras…and so it goes in Sarlat. But that’s the background story. I was talking about Alain, the Dinandier. I digress, but worth so much more conversation..

We left the market with choice goods, heading North, and settled on a south facing slope of some farmers field to enjoy our reparte while it was all so awesomely fresh. No napkin? Not to worry, we had a pair of cotton boxers conveniently nearby. Yes, they were clean and in the suitcase that we had with us as we were moving from one week long spot to another. Lucky us. But wait, I digress…

We fell upon this storybook picture village of golden brick, blooming bougainvillaea spilling out over ancient walls, and lovely, grand scale church- all framing the dark, dust mote filled ting ting ting sound of the workshop we peeked into. Who would have thought?

What I could make out among the dim, tool filled corners stocked with all types of copper pieces and partially assembled stills, was basically two rooms, one for making, one for objects des arts. I learned Alain spent most of his time fabricating German stills. They were beautiful, but I thought he was making a selection of outstanding pots just for me. I came to meet him.  I was given two choices. Two choices? A two-handed-only sauce pan, no thanks, or the wide and shallow, I-can-braise-anything-and-do-so-many-amazing-things-for-you-if-you-just-let- me, two handled pan. I chose that one. It called to me and it was beautiful. Merci Alain.

What to make with this gem? Well now, almost anything. But a good example of its talents is in allowing all items to get a front row seat at the fire.  All ingredients toast up quickly and you can layer in a complete assembly in a short amount of time. Wide and shallow pans like this, really build the flavors, layer by layer, and create the character of a dish. Trying to cook up the same amount of ingredients in a narrower pan takes too many batches to keep the food sauteeing, and not braising. So, this is a pan designed to feed the dinner gathering, not suitable for solo ventures.

A mid winter favorite uses some pantry staples and a solid garden green, Cavolo Nero or Lacinato kale and bakes into a dry style gratin. Try the leftovers with a soft egg, and a glass of sherry. I used some leftover cooked chickpeas, and I picked up the Chorizo from Olympic Provisions on NW Thurman. I bought two different styles, one smoked and dried and the other fresh. The combination was fun. And they are really good. The breadcrumbs I had in the freezer, very convenient.

Chick Peas, Chorizo and Cavolo Nero

Because the technique for this dish uses a wide bottomed pan, use the best pan for the job that you may have-a cast iron pan would be a good choice, or an enameled cast iron dutch oven. Please use the amounts in this recipe as guidelines only, adjusting or substituting the ingredients as well. The method is what’s important. It’s a casual and comfort-minded dish, meant to satisfy on a quiet solo night, or a full gathering at the Sunday table.

Set your pan to heat on med. high for about 1 minute. When it is hot, add 1/4 cup of the olive oil. Let the oil get hot for another minute, then add the garlic cloves and swirl them around in the hot oil. When they begin to brown at the edges, remove them and set them aside to add later. You are flavoring the oil now only. Immediately add the onion all at once, then the chiles and saute until the onion is a light golden color, about 5-10 minutes. Add the thyme, reserved garlic and stir. season with salt and pepper.  Now put in the kale and stir well. After about 5 minutes, stirring gently, add the wine and scrape up any carmelized pieces. When the wine has just evaporated, transfer the onion kale mixture to a cazuela or earthenware dish to a warmed 300 oven.
In the same pan, add a T. of oil and sate the Chorizo until just crisp on the outside edges. Remove to the warmed dish and stir together. Keep warm. Add another T. oil to the hot pan and add your chickpeas. Season them with salt and pepper. Fry until crispy, about 10 minutes. Add these to the warm dish in the oven. Now add the remaining 2 T. oil to the pan, along with the butter and let them sizzle together to blend. The butter adds flavor and extends the smoking point of the oil. Saute the breadcrumbs in this mixture for about 5-7 minutes, or unitl they are golden. Sprinkle them over the warm dish and serve with a soft goat cheese, or grated Manchego. Don’t forget the sherry.

I’ve got this ingredient splattered recipe book I’ve been using for the past 25 years. Its actually the first of three I’ve filled. One of those journals covered in cloth with blank pages.  One stroll through it and it is very obvious which recipes have been most loved. Some of them, the more complicated (and therefore not memorized), are so badly smeared and roughed up that it is only through constant use and repetition that I can figure out the details. These books have been the hallmark of the kitchen, the backbone, if you will. Thus, I’ve been motivated to pull out my favorite core recipes and maintain an electronic library, perhaps more secure, and for all to share.

This recipe has been with me for about 30 years. It came from my friend, Sandy Miller who I lived with after college for a bit. She was a dietician who knew good food and we had fun cooking together. She also has generously supplied me with a couple of my most often baked recipes. Banana bread is one of those easy to throw together staples on the kitchen counter. It takes to creative application well. Adding or substituting…chocolate chips, lemon or orange zest, nuts, coffee, cinnamon, brown sugar, raisins etc. For me, keeping it simple works best, and no one is offended. No nuts or raisins to dig out, no complexities to confuse. Just bananas. So, it’s all about ratios in this recipe. Plenty of banana is key, usually about 3 per pan. That insures a really heavy and moist bread-also adding the yogurt cuts the really sweet ripe banana flavor and gives it a better balance. Try it as is, to appreciate it’s versatility, then explore. Maybe you’ll find one that will end up in your collection.

My girls have their own books, some more filled than others..I think there is a Brat Doll folder with someone’s chaotic aging collection, but they get the idea. Making good food to share is an incredibly fun business to be in. Cooking is love. The bottom line is that you just want to insure that there is always a good friend poking in the door,  or at the table to keep you company. Life is a challenge. It’s easier to take it on with a happy belly and a warm hand.

Banana Bread

This recipe makes one 9×5 dense loaf. Set the oven to 350. This bread takes a good 50 minutes to bake.

Pork tacos are fun food. They are a casual meal for a crowd, easy to put together, and sure to make everyone feel good. There are countless interpretations of tacos, from the tortilla to the fillings. They have no season, therefore can be made with anything available that works for you. I’ve been making this pork recipe for dozens of years now, and have forgotten where it originated from. Regardless, like most recipes, it is meant to be inspirational by nature, but interpreted by the cook with his own style. I have managed to hit upon the best combination of tortilla, filling and garnishes that work for me. Try some variations that add crunch, softness, heat or coolness that work together for you.

I start with either handmade tortillas, using masa harina, water and a press, or if I’m having a crowd, I will either pick up fresh ones from Por Que No? or the handmade corn tortillas from Trader Joe’s. All good choices.  I like corn for their flavor and texture. The trick to cooking them for a group is to pan fry them in a bit of oil, and when they puff up, remove them to a cazuela, or other earthenware vessel, and wrap in a moist warm towel. I keep the cazuela on the warming shelf of my stove while I continue to cook them.

The pork filling recipe can be made ahead, and kept refrigerated for days. The recipe uses boneless pork rib meat as that is a perfect cut for slow braising to impart tenderness and full flavor. I make the sauce, cook it for a while and then puree it. The meat gets browned, added to the sauce and cooked slowly for a few hours. This filling can be used for tamales, tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas or for any other ideas you may have.

My favorite fillings for these tacos are shredded red cabbage, avacados, shredded white vintage extra sharp cheddar, tomatillo salsa (Rick Bayless’s Frontera brand or homemade) and cilantro. Now thats a taco. Nothin’ better.

Chile Pork for Tacos

Soften the dried chiles in a cup or two of boiling water, weighted down. When softer, remove the stem and  seeds and chop them. Set aside. Heat a large sauce pot (preferably ovenproof) over medium high heat and then add the oil. When the oil is hot, put in the onion and cook until it starts to brown. Add the cumin seeds and oregano and stir. Turn the heat down to medium, and let cook a minute before adding the garlic, chipotles and tomatoes. Stir another minute or two, then add the stock. Bring to a slow simmer, then cover and cook slowly for about an hour. Turn off the heat, and remove the pot from the stove. Puree in the pot with an immersion blender until smooth.

Turn the oven on to 325°. Season the pork with salt and pepper. Heat a large saute pan over medium, then add a couple tablespoons of oil. Let the oil get hot, then add your pork, and let cook on each side a few minutes until all sides are brown. You may need to work in batches, as you don’t want to overcrowd your pan- the meat will not brown properly. When the meat is browned on all sides, place it in an ovenproof pot with the sauce and cook covered in the oven for a few hours or until tender.

]]> http://www.foodstylistlucy.com/InTheKitchen/2011/02/28/pork-tacos/feed/ 0 http://www.foodstylistlucy.com/InTheKitchen/2011/02/26/oh-oh-orange-cake/ http://www.foodstylistlucy.com/InTheKitchen/2011/02/26/oh-oh-orange-cake/#comments Sun, 27 Feb 2011 01:36:27 +0000 Lucy http://www.foodstylistlucy.com/InTheKitchen/?p=358  

fresh orange cake

This is citrus season. No better time to revive the senses out from under the blankets with a fresh orange cake. It always comes as a surprise to me that in the dead of winter here in the Northwest (25 degrees and snow on the ground as I write this), tangerines, oranges, grapefruits and lemons are ripe in the lower half of the country. What a great sight to see at the market-the warm, sunny colors and flavors we associate with summer. From Meyer lemons to blood oranges, there are plenty of choices and the sweet, tart flavors are so refreshing after living on the richer and heavier comfort foods of winter (ok, so I ran downstairs and made myself a cup of chocolate, you know the recipe, with lots of bittersweet chocolate?). Not only are citrus fruits loaded with vitamin C, but also have more potassium than bananas and are rich in phyto chemicals–the ones that help to fight cancer. (Come to think of it, so does chocolate.)

I like to make this simple orange cake with the season’s first navel oranges. It is a simple cake to put together and can be baked in a cake pan or a bundt.  I make it both ways and still can’t decide which way is best. Drizzle it with a simple syrup of fresh orange juice sweetened with agave or sugar if you want something more. Just don’t over bake it!  Always better under than over. Sometimes you just have to bake a lot to figure it out.

Fresh Orange Cake
Makes one 8″ or 9″ cake

Set the oven to 350°. Prepare your pan with butter and parchment if using a 8″ or 9″ pan, or with flour if using a bundt (think Big Fat Greek Wedding). In a small bowl, stir together the dry ingredients. In a mixer, blend the butter until smooth, then add the orange zest (I use a planer and zest right into the mixing bowl to catch the oils released while zesting.) Add the sugar and blend again, then the eggs one at a time, scraping the bowl after each addition. Add a third of the flour, half of the juice, another third of the flour etc., until all is mixed gently and incorporated. This is the typical “creaming method” you will use for most cakes, muffins, cookies and quick breads. Pour batter into pan, gently level batter and bake for 30 minutes or until just done and starting to color on the surface. Let cool for at least 10 minutes, then invert and drizzle with syrup if using.

Photos by Jeff Freeman

She can do anything. Especially when involving her hands. She knits, sews, quilts, weaves, cooks, bakes, cans, and bottles lovely liqeurs- a mere domestic goddess. She does a lot more than that but that’s not the story.

Growing garden produce is her latest venture.  And, as usual, she does it rather well. Her bounty this year has been shared with my household-sugar snap and snow peas, lettuces, beets, patty pan squash,  yellow zucchini, and  cavolo nero, or Lacinato kale. The kale is a special treat. I have just started realizing how darn tasty I can make this crinkly green, pairing it with heavenly flavors and complex textures.

Because I’m still waiting for the never- produced real summer season, and literally way too cold for August, I’m making savory gratins. This really should be a dish for winter. A comfort, a humbug of ingredients one might have on hand in the cold storage and gussied up with a bit of wine and cheese, a little cream? But here I am, thinking of winter foods on the last day of August with another humble offering of kale and squash on my doorstep. What to do? It’s raining again!

Kale and beans are a classic Italian combination, so I started with that. Then, I rounded it out with a saute of the squashes, a drizzle of a wine and cream reduction, grated parmesan, and fresh breadcrumbs. Although there are a few steps to putting this dish together, it is an incredibly savory combination and makes a great meal all by itself. Not forgetting the glass of wine, of course.

One of the main reasons this dish is so tasty is due to the sum of it’s parts. Obviously, the produce should be local, and you should be using the best beans, oil and cheese that you can afford. I found Rancho Gordo heirloom beans in Napa, California. Although they aren’t local, they come from small, sustainable farms dedicated to growing new world heirloom varieties (indigenous to the Americas). And for the breadcrumbs (which form the crusty top of the gratin) it’s easy to keep a supply in the freezer by putting stale baguettes in the food processor and storing the rough crumbs in the freezer for pasta or gratins.

The recipe can be broken down into five parts: cooking the beans, blanching the kale, sauteeing the squash, making the reduction and frying the breadcrumbs. You can do the last three steps all in the same pan without washing it.

Dede’s Garden Gratin

makes a 9 x 13 casserole

Heat a large saute pan over medium high heat, and pour in the olive oil.   Add the onions and saute. Add the shallots, garlic, chiles and rosemary and toss until coated with oil and beginning to cook. Add the sliced squash and saute, distributing the flavorings well. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring until the squash releases some of it’s liquid, and is starting to color. Add the kale, and mix well. Cook another 5 minutes, then spread out into the casserole. Deglaze the pan by adding the wine. Reduce the wine by half. Add the cream and a few scrapings of nutmeg, salt and pepper. Remove from the heat. Drizzle this over the squash and kale. In the same pan, add the butter and let it melt over medium low heat. Put in the breadcrumbs, tossing to coat, and cook them until they are toasted. Remove from the heat.

Distribute the beans over the kale and squash, and sprinkle on the cheese. Top with the breadcrumbs. Bake the gratin in a 350 oven for about 45 minutes.

LTV???

As in… “lick the vessel” CLEAN. Seriously.

Could mac and cheese be that good??? This is the most American of comfort foods. It’s not something I ever order when dining out, nor want to admit I’m even interesting in trying to master.  But, this is a dish for that cozy occasion when just nothing else will do.  Even our founding father, Thomas Jefferson, decided it was worthy of being served in the White House. Young or old, most of us wouldn’t turn down a perfect spoonful.

But our very American interest in convenience has taken this classic side dish to unrecognizable concoctions- the day glow orange, processed, boxed meal that parents feed to their kids. The Kraft company boasts of selling more than one million boxes a day. Is that really food? A meal?

I decided it was worth recreating this all time favorite, searching for a perfect balance of soft, rich, smoky, spicy, chewy and crunchy qualities. The LTV  packs a definitive punch. This version has enough merit to be complex. For mac and cheese, that’s a challenge. I’ve taken a classic sauce Mornay and gussied it up. I added dry mustard and worchestershire for background flavor, canned chipotles in adobo for a smoky bite, and believe it or not, a touch of liquid smoke as it enhances the chiles nicely. Tillamook’s vintage aged white sharp cheddar is the perfect cheese to round out the flavor of this sauce. For a crunchy top, I sauteed breadcrumbs in a bit of garlic and butter.

Although some could make this an entire meal, it only seems reasonable to suggest adding  something a bit more healthy as well. Dark and leafy greens perhaps, or peas, beans or asparagus with lemon.  A bit of wine can go a long way to cut the richness. Perhaps it’s all about balance. One can indulge in a dish as rich and scrumptious as this, but keeping portions small, is wise.

Now, I realize, there are those out there who covet their recipes, keeping their secrets close at hand, not to be out done, minimized. But what fun is there in that? We all know how important it is to share. And at least it may guarantee that perhaps some evening at a friend’s dinner table, when it is announced that their special family recipe for macaroni and cheese is being served, you won’t have to politely squirm through dinner systematically removing the contents of your dinner plate into the napkin in your lap.

LTV Macaroni and Cheese

This recipe makes (1) 9×13 pan, and (1) 6×12 oval or 8×8 square
It works well to make a portion to bake immediately, and to freeze the rest for another time. If freezing, don’t put the breadcrumbs on top until you are ready to bake it.

Make the sauce: you can make this ahead and rewarm it in a pot while you cook the pasta.
Make a brown roux by melting the butter over medium heat until just starting to color, sprinkle the flour over the butter and stir well. Reduce the heat to medium low and let the roux cook for a few minutes, stirring. Add the garlic and the mustard and continue stirring for another couple of minutes. Your liquids should be in a glass measuring cup with a pour spout. With your whisk in one hand,  slowly pour about half of the liquids into the roux, whisking constantly as the mixture will thicken quickly. Once you have smoothed out any lumps, add the rest of the liquid. Whisk until smooth. Add the rest of your ingredients, adjusting the salt and pepper to your taste. Add the cheese in portions, tasting as you go, to find the right balance that works for you.

Make the breadcrumbs. I use leftover baguettes that have dried out, slice them and either use a rolling pin to partially smash them, or a food processor if you’re careful not to make powder. Melt the butter in a saute pan, add the garlic, stir, then add the breadcrumbs  and saute until just beginning to turn golden.

Prepare the vessels: In a large bowl, mix your warm sauce and cool pasta. Portion into your oven safe pans and sprinkle on the breadcrumbs (if baking right away.) Cook in a 350 degree oven for 30 minutes. The top should be just browning on the edges, and bubbling.

Now, eat your greens and remember to share.

Need I say more?

Liquid gold. Nirvana in a cup. A heavenly gift.

Drinking chocolate is all the rage. It’s front page news. We are not reading about hot chocolate. We are guided by lists of what, where, how, and when we can get a cup of drinking chocolate. Does the movie Chocolat come to mind? Vianne (Juliette Binoche) creates a sensational cup of magic for her customers that seems to heal. Her fellow Parisians have been ordering up drinking chocolate at Angelina’s, Cafe de Flore and Les Deux Magots for over a century. And now Portland has finally caught on to serving up this special brew.

Although recipes and techniques vary, the idea is to melt bittersweet chocolate with just enough milk and cream in order to hold your tongue captive for as long as possible, slowly releasing it down your throat and saturating it with pleasure. Why else bother? The calories alone demand serious consideration. Every gram must deliver.

For all of those chocolate lovers who have wonderful artisanal brands like Scharffen Berger, Valrhona and Dagoba in their pantry, you’re set to go. Some are happy with Ghirardelli, Baker’s and Nestle. Whatever your preference, buy the best that you can. It makes all the difference. Everyone in my family is a chocoholic. Therefore, I always have a good chunk of my favorite powerhouse brand around, Callebaut bittersweet, to please any craving.

So, when the need arises (and I did say ‘need,’ not ‘mood’) consider fixing the most incredible way to deliver that deep, dark, intense chocolate experience. And as we drag ourselves deeper into the chilly and blustery days of winter, you’ll now have a reason to head to your warm kitchen instead of putting on all those layers and heading outside in search of that magic.

Drinking Chocolate

makes about 3 cups

Melt the chocolate in a double boiler over medium to low heat. I do this with the chocolate in a stainless steel bowl set over a saucepan. Remove the bowl from the pan, stir the chocolate until smooth, and then whisk in the water to blend.

In another bowl, stir the cocoa powder to break up any lumps, then mix in a few tablespoons of the milk to make a smooth paste. Add the rest of the liquids and the salt, mixing thoroughly.

Now, whisk the milk and cocoa mixture into the bowl of melted chocolate and stir until smooth, then return the mixture to the warm pan used for the double boiler (having poured out the remaining hot water first!) Stir over medium low heat until hot.

Note: I adapted this recipe from one of my favorite cookbooks recommended to me by one of my favorite cooks—Karen Lynn. In her book, Sunday Supers at Lucques, Suzanne Goin uses equal parts milk and cream in her recipe. I didn’t dare try that concoction, I wasn’t brave enough, and yet still found my version outrageously good.

The perfect Sunday morning waffle. Named so because you will keep the waffle iron working all morning until you are satisfied. These are so light and creamy and perfect, that it will take quite a few to get you there. Yet, it all must begin the night before. Planning ahead is essential for the yeast to mingle, grow and create the perfect texture-light, moist and chewy. These are not the big, dry, cardboard variety you find all too often—impostors for sure. These are the real deal.

I found this recipe about 30 years ago and have been amazed by how simple and consistent it has been. Margaret Fox, the owner of Cafe Beaujolais in Mendocino, California from 1977-2000  served these waffles to her loyal customers. As ownership has turned over twice since then, I have no idea if they are still on the menu. Since finding this recipe, however, I have come across it several times since in various cookbooks, correctly attributing it to her genius.

As usual with waffles, these are best served with warm maple syrup, and perhaps a sliced banana or two on the side. More times than not, I have ended up standing in the kitchen,  plucking my waffle straight out of the iron, breaking it into quarters, and dipping each portion into the syrup with my fingers. Why bother with a plate? They are best eaten immediately with fingers. Make sure to wash up well before tackling the Sunday paper.

Raised waffles for Sunday morning

makes about a dozen waffles (in an old fashioned 8″ round waffle iron)

This batter is fairy quick to put together. You need to make it in the evening as to be able to enjoy the waffles in the morning.  Choose a large bowl to start as the batter may double in volume.

Put the water in the bowl, sprinkle in the yeast and stir to combine. Add the sugar and let sit about 5 minutes. Place a small saucepan on the stove with the butter to melt it, then add the milk. Heat through until warm, not hot. I don’t have a microwave, but you could use that method instead.

Add the warmed milk and melted butter to the yeast mixture along with the flour and salt. Beat until smooth.

You will be adding the eggs and baking soda in the morning. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave on the counter overnight.

In the morning, just before you’re ready to cook the waffles, add the eggs and baking soda. The batter will be thin. Don’t worry. The waffles will cook up beautifully!

Any leftover batter, hard to imagine, can be kept in the refrigerator for several days.

Bon appetit!

]]> http://www.foodstylistlucy.com/InTheKitchen/2009/12/27/sunday-morning-waffles/feed/ 0 http://www.foodstylistlucy.com/InTheKitchen/2009/07/09/a-pie-with-a-past/ http://www.foodstylistlucy.com/InTheKitchen/2009/07/09/a-pie-with-a-past/#comments Thu, 09 Jul 2009 20:01:36 +0000 Lucy http://www.foodstylistlucy.com/blog/?p=152

MY GIRLFRIEND, Miss Mavis Brown, arrived on Thanksgiving day last year with her venerable chocolate pie. She had made it once before and was overwhelmed by how incredibly good it was, but noted that it had a tendency to be a bit “sloppy.” Seeing the look of concern on my face, she quickly followed with… “but I’ll bet it was because I hadn’t let it chill overnight first.”  The pie in her hands was thoughtfully chilled overnight, and just needed it’s topping and chocolate shavings. As the evening rolled by, I found myself at the table in conversation while the desserts were being enjoyed in the kitchen. I noticed that the kitchen was now more crowded than the table. I missed the pie’s debut, making it to the kitchen just in time to see the remnants. What was left was a loose mass of chocolate goo. And nobody seemed to care. I learned much from that pie. First-guests will usually eat anything made from chocolate. Second- it was so tasty, it didn’t matter what it looked like. Third, always read through a recipe before assuming it will work. 

When I was a kid, my favorite neighborhood restaurant was the Yum Yum Tree. Funny how I never questioned the absurdity of that name. Blame it on the pie. Their pies had a serious following. My favorite: the English Toffee pie. I can still recall it in sweet detail, and have found similar recipes for a “French Silk Pie” but haven’t hit the jackpot. I’ve come close, but Miss Brown’s pie gave me the shortcut to perfection. I tweaked a few things, and now have a pie that is better than what I loved as a kid, and works better than the original recipe did for Mavis.

So how can I still be rambling on and on about a pie…? Let me just describe it to you. First, you make a crust with chocolate wafers, butter and sugar. Bake that until it’s crispy, then sprinkle in some chopped bittersweet chocolate and let that melt. Spread that around and then chill it. That layer will keep the crust crunchy. While the crust is baking, make a bittersweet chocolate pudding. Give it a quick chill, then add into the pie crust. Next, whip up some cream with espresso powder, and put that over the top of the pudding. Sprinkle on some chocolate shavings and now consider that it’s going to have to be hidden soon or else it will be gone. At my house, we have to score the pie, making clear, equal divisions of ownership so everyone is accountable. Serious stuff that pie.

Some of the steps along the way…

Bittersweet Chocolate Mocha Cream Pie
makes a 9 inch pie

Set the oven to 350. Make cookie crumbs in the food processor, add the sugar, then the butter and process until crumbs are evenly moistened. Press the crumb mixture onto the bottom and sides of a 9″ pie dish. Bake until the crust is set and is no longer moist, about 12-15 minutes. Remove from the oven, and sprinkle the chocolate over the bottom of the crust. Let stand a few minutes until the chocolate softens, then spread over the bottom and sides of the crust to cover. No need to go all the way up to the top of the rim. Chill until set, about 30 minutes.

Whisk sugar, cocoa, cornstarch and salt to blend in a heavy medium saucepan. Gradually add 1/3 cup of the milk and whisk to form a smooth batter. In a small bowl, break up the egg yolks with a fork, and whisk in 1 cup of the remaining milk. Add this to the saucepan, along with the rest of the milk and the cream. Turn on the heat to medium, and using a flat-bottomed wooden spoon or heatproof spatula, stir constantly until the mixture is thick and smooth, about 5 minutes. It will begin to bubble at the edges. Take the pudding off of the heat, and add the chocolate and vanilla. Let the pudding cool about 1 hour on the counter, then stir well, and fill into the cooled pie shell. Cover with plastic, and re-chill the pie at least 3 hours before serving. Can be made 2 days ahead.

Using an electric mixer, whip the cream with the espresso powder and sugar until soft peaks form. Continue to beat just until stiff enough to hold it’s shape. Spread over the pie and sprinkle with chocolate. You can  assemble the pie about 8 hrs. ahead if desired. It keeps it’s structure and crunch into the next day, if you are so lucky.

Now go and find a place to hide it.

IS IT ME, or do you too conjure up goofy images when you think of coconuts? Gilligan’s Island? Coconut shell bikini tops? Tropical drinks with straws on the half shell? Coconuts falling from a tree and bouncing off Curly’s head from a Three Stooges skit? Tropical=casual=fun. Although the coconut has a laid back attitude-who is going to take it seriously when you need a mallet and lots of determination just to get at it’s exotic, sweet flesh?!- it does have some amazing nutritional and beneficial properties. It’s value is overlooked in our newly marketed dietary guidelines, but you may want to think twice before assuming it’s not healthy. I poked around a bit just to get reacquainted with what I had learned as a young consumer growing up in Hawaii.

Organic Facts website declares:

The health benefits of coconut oil include hair care, skin care, stress relief, maintaining cholesterol levels, weight loss, increased immunity, proper digestion and metabolism, relief from kidney problems, heart diseases, high blood pressure, diabetes, HIV and cancer, dental care, and bone strength. Coconut oil is often preferred by athletes and body builders and by those who are dieting. The reason behind this being that coconut oil contains lesser calories than other oils, its fat content is easily converted into energy and it does not lead to accumulation of fat in the heart and arteries. Coconut oil helps in boosting energy and endurance, and enhances the performance of athletes.

For those of you who love coconut regardless and want to enjoy it in close to pure form, try it in a macaroon. I remember making this cookie long ago using only shredded coconut, sweetened condensed milk and vanilla. This macaroon is more confection than cookie, really. So, recently, I experimented with bringing more variety of texture and more flavor to the macaroon and tried to keep it still pure but simple. No egg whites folded in and no flour to stretch the batter. I used three different kinds of coconut and toasted two of them before mixing them with the sweetened condensed milk. The flavor is more intense and the texture more dense and chewy. You may also try dipping some of the macaroons in bittersweet chocolate as the picture above shows. Those didn’t last long in my kitchen.

Coconut Macaroons

Turn the oven on to 350, sprinkle unsweetened coconut (both) onto a parchment lined baking sheet and toast in the warming oven until light golden in color. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, mix the sweetened coconut with the condensed milk and vanilla. Add the toasted coconut to the bowl and mix evenly. Using your fingers, grab a tablespoonful of the mixture and make a mound on the parchment. You can place the mixture somewhat close together as they really don’t spread that much. I have found that if your fingers are dampened with water, the mixture doesn’t stick.

Bake the macaroons for 20-30 minutes depending on how toasted you like them. I prefer to have them crunchy on the outside and softer in the middle-this takes about 25-30 minutes. Let cool on the sheet pan about 15 minutes, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely before storing. They will harden as they cool.

Keep in mind that once these are stored in an air tight container, they do soften up. You can refresh their exterior crunch by popping them into a toaster oven for a few minutes first, then let them cool. Yum!