Pork tacos are fun food. They are a casual meal for a crowd, easy to put together, and sure to make everyone feel good. There are countless interpretations of tacos, from the tortilla to the fillings. They have no season, therefore can be made with anything available that works for you. I’ve been making this pork recipe for dozens of years now, and have forgotten where it originated from. Regardless, like most recipes, it is meant to be inspirational by nature, but interpreted by the cook with his own style. I have managed to hit upon the best combination of tortilla, filling and garnishes that work for me. Try some variations that add crunch, softness, heat or coolness that work together for you.

I start with either handmade tortillas, using masa harina, water and a press, or if I’m having a crowd, I will either pick up fresh ones from Por Que No? or the handmade corn tortillas from Trader Joe’s. All good choices.  I like corn for their flavor and texture. The trick to cooking them for a group is to pan fry them in a bit of oil, and when they puff up, remove them to a cazuela, or other earthenware vessel, and wrap in a moist warm towel. I keep the cazuela on the warming shelf of my stove while I continue to cook them.

The pork filling recipe can be made ahead, and kept refrigerated for days. The recipe uses boneless pork rib meat as that is a perfect cut for slow braising to impart tenderness and full flavor. I make the sauce, cook it for a while and then puree it. The meat gets browned, added to the sauce and cooked slowly for a few hours. This filling can be used for tamales, tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas or for any other ideas you may have.

My favorite fillings for these tacos are shredded red cabbage, avacados, shredded white vintage extra sharp cheddar, tomatillo salsa (Rick Bayless’s Frontera brand or homemade) and cilantro. Now thats a taco. Nothin’ better.

Chile Pork for Tacos

Soften the dried chiles in a cup or two of boiling water, weighted down. When softer, remove the stem and  seeds and chop them. Set aside. Heat a large sauce pot (preferably ovenproof) over medium high heat and then add the oil. When the oil is hot, put in the onion and cook until it starts to brown. Add the cumin seeds and oregano and stir. Turn the heat down to medium, and let cook a minute before adding the garlic, chipotles and tomatoes. Stir another minute or two, then add the stock. Bring to a slow simmer, then cover and cook slowly for about an hour. Turn off the heat, and remove the pot from the stove. Puree in the pot with an immersion blender until smooth.

Turn the oven on to 325°. Season the pork with salt and pepper. Heat a large saute pan over medium, then add a couple tablespoons of oil. Let the oil get hot, then add your pork, and let cook on each side a few minutes until all sides are brown. You may need to work in batches, as you don’t want to overcrowd your pan- the meat will not brown properly. When the meat is browned on all sides, place it in an ovenproof pot with the sauce and cook covered in the oven for a few hours or until tender.

fresh orange cake

This is citrus season. No better time to revive the senses out from under the blankets with a fresh orange cake. It always comes as a surprise to me that in the dead of winter here in the Northwest (25 degrees and snow on the ground as I write this), tangerines, oranges, grapefruits and lemons are ripe in the lower half of the country. What a great sight to see at the market-the warm, sunny colors and flavors we associate with summer. From Meyer lemons to blood oranges, there are plenty of choices and the sweet, tart flavors are so refreshing after living on the richer and heavier comfort foods of winter (ok, so I ran downstairs and made myself a cup of chocolate, you know the recipe, with lots of bittersweet chocolate?). Not only are citrus fruits loaded with vitamin C, but also have more potassium than bananas and are rich in phyto chemicals–the ones that help to fight cancer. (Come to think of it, so does chocolate.)

I like to make this simple orange cake with the season’s first navel oranges. It is a simple cake to put together and can be baked in a cake pan or a bundt.  I make it both ways and still can’t decide which way is best. Drizzle it with a simple syrup of fresh orange juice sweetened with agave or sugar if you want something more. Just don’t over bake it!  Always better under than over. Sometimes you just have to bake a lot to figure it out.

Fresh Orange Cake
Makes one 8″ or 9″ cake

Set the oven to 350°. Prepare your pan with butter and parchment if using a 8″ or 9″ pan, or with flour if using a bundt (think Big Fat Greek Wedding). In a small bowl, stir together the dry ingredients. In a mixer, blend the butter until smooth, then add the orange zest (I use a planer and zest right into the mixing bowl to catch the oils released while zesting.) Add the sugar and blend again, then the eggs one at a time, scraping the bowl after each addition. Add a third of the flour, half of the juice, another third of the flour etc., until all is mixed gently and incorporated. This is the typical “creaming method” you will use for most cakes, muffins, cookies and quick breads. Pour batter into pan, gently level batter and bake for 30 minutes or until just done and starting to color on the surface. Let cool for at least 10 minutes, then invert and drizzle with syrup if using.

Photos by Jeff Freeman

She can do anything. Especially when involving her hands. She knits, sews, quilts, weaves, cooks, bakes, cans, and bottles lovely liqeurs- a mere domestic goddess. She does a lot more than that but that’s not the story.

Growing garden produce is her latest venture.  And, as usual, she does it rather well. Her bounty this year has been shared with my household-sugar snap and snow peas, lettuces, beets, patty pan squash,  yellow zucchini, and  cavolo nero, or Lacinato kale. The kale is a special treat. I have just started realizing how darn tasty I can make this crinkly green, pairing it with heavenly flavors and complex textures.

Because I’m still waiting for the never- produced real summer season, and literally way too cold for August, I’m making savory gratins. This really should be a dish for winter. A comfort, a humbug of ingredients one might have on hand in the cold storage and gussied up with a bit of wine and cheese, a little cream? But here I am, thinking of winter foods on the last day of August with another humble offering of kale and squash on my doorstep. What to do? It’s raining again!

Kale and beans are a classic Italian combination, so I started with that. Then, I rounded it out with a saute of the squashes, a drizzle of a wine and cream reduction, grated parmesan, and fresh breadcrumbs. Although there are a few steps to putting this dish together, it is an incredibly savory combination and makes a great meal all by itself. Not forgetting the glass of wine, of course.

One of the main reasons this dish is so tasty is due to the sum of it’s parts. Obviously, the produce should be local, and you should be using the best beans, oil and cheese that you can afford. I found Rancho Gordo heirloom beans in Napa, California. Although they aren’t local, they come from small, sustainable farms dedicated to growing new world heirloom varieties (indigenous to the Americas). And for the breadcrumbs (which form the crusty top of the gratin) it’s easy to keep a supply in the freezer by putting stale baguettes in the food processor and storing the rough crumbs in the freezer for pasta or gratins.

The recipe can be broken down into five parts: cooking the beans, blanching the kale, sauteeing the squash, making the reduction and frying the breadcrumbs. You can do the last three steps all in the same pan without washing it.

Dede’s Garden Gratin

makes a 9 x 13 casserole

Heat a large saute pan over medium high heat, and pour in the olive oil.   Add the onions and saute. Add the shallots, garlic, chiles and rosemary and toss until coated with oil and beginning to cook. Add the sliced squash and saute, distributing the flavorings well. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring until the squash releases some of it’s liquid, and is starting to color. Add the kale, and mix well. Cook another 5 minutes, then spread out into the casserole. Deglaze the pan by adding the wine. Reduce the wine by half. Add the cream and a few scrapings of nutmeg, salt and pepper. Remove from the heat. Drizzle this over the squash and kale. In the same pan, add the butter and let it melt over medium low heat. Put in the breadcrumbs, tossing to coat, and cook them until they are toasted. Remove from the heat.

Distribute the beans over the kale and squash, and sprinkle on the cheese. Top with the breadcrumbs. Bake the gratin in a 350 oven for about 45 minutes.

LTV???

As in… “lick the vessel” CLEAN. Seriously.

Could mac and cheese be that good??? This is the most American of comfort foods. It’s not something I ever order when dining out, nor want to admit I’m even interesting in trying to master.  But, this is a dish for that cozy occasion when just nothing else will do.  Even our founding father, Thomas Jefferson, decided it was worthy of being served in the White House. Young or old, most of us wouldn’t turn down a perfect spoonful.

But our very American interest in convenience has taken this classic side dish to unrecognizable concoctions- the day glow orange, processed, boxed meal that parents feed to their kids. The Kraft company boasts of selling more than one million boxes a day. Is that really food? A meal?

I decided it was worth recreating this all time favorite, searching for a perfect balance of soft, rich, smoky, spicy, chewy and crunchy qualities. The LTV  packs a definitive punch. This version has enough merit to be complex. For mac and cheese, that’s a challenge. I’ve taken a classic sauce Mornay and gussied it up. I added dry mustard and worchestershire for background flavor, canned chipotles in adobo for a smoky bite, and believe it or not, a touch of liquid smoke as it enhances the chiles nicely. Tillamook’s vintage aged white sharp cheddar is the perfect cheese to round out the flavor of this sauce. For a crunchy top, I sauteed breadcrumbs in a bit of garlic and butter.

Although some could make this an entire meal, it only seems reasonable to suggest adding  something a bit more healthy as well. Dark and leafy greens perhaps, or peas, beans or asparagus with lemon.  A bit of wine can go a long way to cut the richness. Perhaps it’s all about balance. One can indulge in a dish as rich and scrumptious as this, but keeping portions small, is wise.

Now, I realize, there are those out there who covet their recipes, keeping their secrets close at hand, not to be out done, minimized. But what fun is there in that? We all know how important it is to share. And at least it may guarantee that perhaps some evening at a friend’s dinner table, when it is announced that their special family recipe for macaroni and cheese is being served, you won’t have to politely squirm through dinner systematically removing the contents of your dinner plate into the napkin in your lap.

LTV Macaroni and Cheese

This recipe makes (1) 9×13 pan, and (1) 6×12 oval or 8×8 square
It works well to make a portion to bake immediately, and to freeze the rest for another time. If freezing, don’t put the breadcrumbs on top until you are ready to bake it.

Make the sauce: you can make this ahead and rewarm it in a pot while you cook the pasta.
Make a brown roux by melting the butter over medium heat until just starting to color, sprinkle the flour over the butter and stir well. Reduce the heat to medium low and let the roux cook for a few minutes, stirring. Add the garlic and the mustard and continue stirring for another couple of minutes. Your liquids should be in a glass measuring cup with a pour spout. With your whisk in one hand,  slowly pour about half of the liquids into the roux, whisking constantly as the mixture will thicken quickly. Once you have smoothed out any lumps, add the rest of the liquid. Whisk until smooth. Add the rest of your ingredients, adjusting the salt and pepper to your taste. Add the cheese in portions, tasting as you go, to find the right balance that works for you.

Make the breadcrumbs. I use leftover baguettes that have dried out, slice them and either use a rolling pin to partially smash them, or a food processor if you’re careful not to make powder. Melt the butter in a saute pan, add the garlic, stir, then add the breadcrumbs  and saute until just beginning to turn golden.

Prepare the vessels: In a large bowl, mix your warm sauce and cool pasta. Portion into your oven safe pans and sprinkle on the breadcrumbs (if baking right away.) Cook in a 350 degree oven for 30 minutes. The top should be just browning on the edges, and bubbling.

Now, eat your greens and remember to share.

Need I say more?

Liquid gold. Nirvana in a cup. A heavenly gift.

Drinking chocolate is all the rage. It’s front page news. We are not reading about hot chocolate. We are guided by lists of what, where, how, and when we can get a cup of drinking chocolate. Does the movie Chocolat come to mind? Vianne (Juliette Binoche) creates a sensational cup of magic for her customers that seems to heal. Her fellow Parisians have been ordering up drinking chocolate at Angelina’s, Cafe de Flore and Les Deux Magots for over a century. And now Portland has finally caught on to serving up this special brew.

Although recipes and techniques vary, the idea is to melt bittersweet chocolate with just enough milk and cream in order to hold your tongue captive for as long as possible, slowly releasing it down your throat and saturating it with pleasure. Why else bother? The calories alone demand serious consideration. Every gram must deliver.

For all of those chocolate lovers who have wonderful artisanal brands like Scharffen Berger, Valrhona and Dagoba in their pantry, you’re set to go. Some are happy with Ghirardelli, Baker’s and Nestle. Whatever your preference, buy the best that you can. It makes all the difference. Everyone in my family is a chocoholic. Therefore, I always have a good chunk of my favorite powerhouse brand around, Callebaut bittersweet, to please any craving.

So, when the need arises (and I did say ‘need,’ not ‘mood’) consider fixing the most incredible way to deliver that deep, dark, intense chocolate experience. And as we drag ourselves deeper into the chilly and blustery days of winter, you’ll now have a reason to head to your warm kitchen instead of putting on all those layers and heading outside in search of that magic.

Drinking Chocolate

makes about 3 cups

Melt the chocolate in a double boiler over medium to low heat. I do this with the chocolate in a stainless steel bowl set over a saucepan. Remove the bowl from the pan, stir the chocolate until smooth, and then whisk in the water to blend.

In another bowl, stir the cocoa powder to break up any lumps, then mix in a few tablespoons of the milk to make a smooth paste. Add the rest of the liquids and the salt, mixing thoroughly.

Now, whisk the milk and cocoa mixture into the bowl of melted chocolate and stir until smooth, then return the mixture to the warm pan used for the double boiler (having poured out the remaining hot water first!) Stir over medium low heat until hot.

Note: I adapted this recipe from one of my favorite cookbooks recommended to me by one of my favorite cooks—Karen Lynn. In her book, Sunday Supers at Lucques, Suzanne Goin uses equal parts milk and cream in her recipe. I didn’t dare try that concoction, I wasn’t brave enough, and yet still found my version outrageously good.

The perfect Sunday morning waffle. Named so because you will keep the waffle iron working all morning until you are satisfied. These are so light and creamy and perfect, that it will take quite a few to get you there. Yet, it all must begin the night before. Planning ahead is essential for the yeast to mingle, grow and create the perfect texture-light, moist and chewy. These are not the big, dry, cardboard variety you find all too often—impostors for sure. These are the real deal.

I found this recipe about 30 years ago and have been amazed by how simple and consistent it has been. Margaret Fox, the owner of Cafe Beaujolais in Mendocino, California from 1977-2000  served these waffles to her loyal customers. As ownership has turned over twice since then, I have no idea if they are still on the menu. Since finding this recipe, however, I have come across it several times since in various cookbooks, correctly attributing it to her genius.

As usual with waffles, these are best served with warm maple syrup, and perhaps a sliced banana or two on the side. More times than not, I have ended up standing in the kitchen,  plucking my waffle straight out of the iron, breaking it into quarters, and dipping each portion into the syrup with my fingers. Why bother with a plate? They are best eaten immediately with fingers. Make sure to wash up well before tackling the Sunday paper.

Raised waffles for Sunday morning

makes about a dozen waffles (in an old fashioned 8″ round waffle iron)

This batter is fairy quick to put together. You need to make it in the evening as to be able to enjoy the waffles in the morning.  Choose a large bowl to start as the batter may double in volume.

Put the water in the bowl, sprinkle in the yeast and stir to combine. Add the sugar and let sit about 5 minutes. Place a small saucepan on the stove with the butter to melt it, then add the milk. Heat through until warm, not hot. I don’t have a microwave, but you could use that method instead.

Add the warmed milk and melted butter to the yeast mixture along with the flour and salt. Beat until smooth.

You will be adding the eggs and baking soda in the morning. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave on the counter overnight.

In the morning, just before you’re ready to cook the waffles, add the eggs and baking soda. The batter will be thin. Don’t worry. The waffles will cook up beautifully!

Any leftover batter, hard to imagine, can be kept in the refrigerator for several days.

Bon appetit!

]]> http://www.foodstylistlucy.com/InTheKitchen/2009/12/27/sunday-morning-waffles/feed/ 0 http://www.foodstylistlucy.com/InTheKitchen/2009/07/09/a-pie-with-a-past/ http://www.foodstylistlucy.com/InTheKitchen/2009/07/09/a-pie-with-a-past/#comments Thu, 09 Jul 2009 20:01:36 +0000 Lucy http://www.foodstylistlucy.com/blog/?p=152

MY GIRLFRIEND, Miss Mavis Brown, arrived on Thanksgiving day last year with her venerable chocolate pie. She had made it once before and was overwhelmed by how incredibly good it was, but noted that it had a tendency to be a bit “sloppy.” Seeing the look of concern on my face, she quickly followed with… “but I’ll bet it was because I hadn’t let it chill overnight first.”  The pie in her hands was thoughtfully chilled overnight, and just needed it’s topping and chocolate shavings. As the evening rolled by, I found myself at the table in conversation while the desserts were being enjoyed in the kitchen. I noticed that the kitchen was now more crowded than the table. I missed the pie’s debut, making it to the kitchen just in time to see the remnants. What was left was a loose mass of chocolate goo. And nobody seemed to care. I learned much from that pie. First-guests will usually eat anything made from chocolate. Second- it was so tasty, it didn’t matter what it looked like. Third, always read through a recipe before assuming it will work. 

When I was a kid, my favorite neighborhood restaurant was the Yum Yum Tree. Funny how I never questioned the absurdity of that name. Blame it on the pie. Their pies had a serious following. My favorite: the English Toffee pie. I can still recall it in sweet detail, and have found similar recipes for a “French Silk Pie” but haven’t hit the jackpot. I’ve come close, but Miss Brown’s pie gave me the shortcut to perfection. I tweaked a few things, and now have a pie that is better than what I loved as a kid, and works better than the original recipe did for Mavis.

So how can I still be rambling on and on about a pie…? Let me just describe it to you. First, you make a crust with chocolate wafers, butter and sugar. Bake that until it’s crispy, then sprinkle in some chopped bittersweet chocolate and let that melt. Spread that around and then chill it. That layer will keep the crust crunchy. While the crust is baking, make a bittersweet chocolate pudding. Give it a quick chill, then add into the pie crust. Next, whip up some cream with espresso powder, and put that over the top of the pudding. Sprinkle on some chocolate shavings and now consider that it’s going to have to be hidden soon or else it will be gone. At my house, we have to score the pie, making clear, equal divisions of ownership so everyone is accountable. Serious stuff that pie.

Some of the steps along the way…

Bittersweet Chocolate Mocha Cream Pie
makes a 9 inch pie

Set the oven to 350. Make cookie crumbs in the food processor, add the sugar, then the butter and process until crumbs are evenly moistened. Press the crumb mixture onto the bottom and sides of a 9″ pie dish. Bake until the crust is set and is no longer moist, about 12-15 minutes. Remove from the oven, and sprinkle the chocolate over the bottom of the crust. Let stand a few minutes until the chocolate softens, then spread over the bottom and sides of the crust to cover. No need to go all the way up to the top of the rim. Chill until set, about 30 minutes.

Whisk sugar, cocoa, cornstarch and salt to blend in a heavy medium saucepan. Gradually add 1/3 cup of the milk and whisk to form a smooth batter. In a small bowl, break up the egg yolks with a fork, and whisk in 1 cup of the remaining milk. Add this to the saucepan, along with the rest of the milk and the cream. Turn on the heat to medium, and using a flat-bottomed wooden spoon or heatproof spatula, stir constantly until the mixture is thick and smooth, about 5 minutes. It will begin to bubble at the edges. Take the pudding off of the heat, and add the chocolate and vanilla. Let the pudding cool about 1 hour on the counter, then stir well, and fill into the cooled pie shell. Cover with plastic, and re-chill the pie at least 3 hours before serving. Can be made 2 days ahead.

Using an electric mixer, whip the cream with the espresso powder and sugar until soft peaks form. Continue to beat just until stiff enough to hold it’s shape. Spread over the pie and sprinkle with chocolate. You can  assemble the pie about 8 hrs. ahead if desired. It keeps it’s structure and crunch into the next day, if you are so lucky.

Now go and find a place to hide it.

IS IT ME, or do you too conjure up goofy images when you think of coconuts? Gilligan’s Island? Coconut shell bikini tops? Tropical drinks with straws on the half shell? Coconuts falling from a tree and bouncing off Curly’s head from a Three Stooges skit? Tropical=casual=fun. Although the coconut has a laid back attitude-who is going to take it seriously when you need a mallet and lots of determination just to get at it’s exotic, sweet flesh?!- it does have some amazing nutritional and beneficial properties. It’s value is overlooked in our newly marketed dietary guidelines, but you may want to think twice before assuming it’s not healthy. I poked around a bit just to get reacquainted with what I had learned as a young consumer growing up in Hawaii.

Organic Facts website declares:

The health benefits of coconut oil include hair care, skin care, stress relief, maintaining cholesterol levels, weight loss, increased immunity, proper digestion and metabolism, relief from kidney problems, heart diseases, high blood pressure, diabetes, HIV and cancer, dental care, and bone strength. Coconut oil is often preferred by athletes and body builders and by those who are dieting. The reason behind this being that coconut oil contains lesser calories than other oils, its fat content is easily converted into energy and it does not lead to accumulation of fat in the heart and arteries. Coconut oil helps in boosting energy and endurance, and enhances the performance of athletes.

For those of you who love coconut regardless and want to enjoy it in close to pure form, try it in a macaroon. I remember making this cookie long ago using only shredded coconut, sweetened condensed milk and vanilla. This macaroon is more confection than cookie, really. So, recently, I experimented with bringing more variety of texture and more flavor to the macaroon and tried to keep it still pure but simple. No egg whites folded in and no flour to stretch the batter. I used three different kinds of coconut and toasted two of them before mixing them with the sweetened condensed milk. The flavor is more intense and the texture more dense and chewy. You may also try dipping some of the macaroons in bittersweet chocolate as the picture above shows. Those didn’t last long in my kitchen.

Coconut Macaroons

Turn the oven on to 350, sprinkle unsweetened coconut (both) onto a parchment lined baking sheet and toast in the warming oven until light golden in color. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, mix the sweetened coconut with the condensed milk and vanilla. Add the toasted coconut to the bowl and mix evenly. Using your fingers, grab a tablespoonful of the mixture and make a mound on the parchment. You can place the mixture somewhat close together as they really don’t spread that much. I have found that if your fingers are dampened with water, the mixture doesn’t stick.

Bake the macaroons for 20-30 minutes depending on how toasted you like them. I prefer to have them crunchy on the outside and softer in the middle-this takes about 25-30 minutes. Let cool on the sheet pan about 15 minutes, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely before storing. They will harden as they cool.

Keep in mind that once these are stored in an air tight container, they do soften up. You can refresh their exterior crunch by popping them into a toaster oven for a few minutes first, then let them cool. Yum!

I AM SO CRAZY for quince. I may have mentioned that in my last entry which heralded their virtues. I have been devouring all that jam and jelly I had made last year but unfortunately it won’t be long now before it’s all gone. It was the largest batch of anything I had ever made, so much so that I shared quite a bit for Christmas gifts. Luckily, I planned to make the most of the 25 pound box of quince that I had bought at a local farm so along with the jam, jelly and preserves making last fall, I put up some quince vodka, or ‘Ratafia. ‘

To alleviate the disappointment of my dwindling supply of jam, I simply open up the pantry, and am instantly reminded of the pleasures yet to come- long, warm days and cool summer cocktails. Stored in the dark, among the cans and bottles on the bottom shelf, is a large eight quart jar filled with quince ratafia ‘to be.’ It has been sitting in there for three months now with the intention of being there for another five.

But what fun is that? Testing and tasting is part of the cooks business and education. So, for the sake of the picture and my curiosity, I made a couple of cocktails last week to celebrate the Ratafia’s three month infusion in my pantry. The perfume was already present. The color is rich persimmon, just like the jelly. I have made this Ratafia once before and did manage to let it age for a year. I am surprised to find so much depth of color and flavor after just these past months. Cocktails made from quince Ratafia have such an exotic perfume that just a squeeze of Meyer lemon is all that is needed when seving it over ice. You could add a splash of sparkling mineral water as well. Garnish with a slice of lemon, put your feet up and let the evening roll on in.

My friend Carol shared this recipe with me. The batch that got me hooked was aged for a year. She confirms that the flavor is directly affected by the ripeness and freshness of the quince. When they are at their absolute peak of giving off their perfume it is best to make your Ratafia. Ratafia is a liqueur most likely found in French farmhouses- farmers using the plentiful nuts and local stone fruits growing on their land. The Italians make a similar liquer using lemons-limoncello. Basically, you just infuse the fruit with sugar (and spices if you wish,) pour in the alcohol and let it ripen for a few months in a cool, dark place.

Carol’s Quince Ratafia

THE ANCIENT QUINCE…..kind of a mystery fruit.  Neither an apple nor a pear, but of the same Rose family. This was the chosen fruit for the symbol of fertility by the ancient Greeks, who dedicated them to Aphrodite, the goddess of love. Quince are native to the area between the Caspian and Black Seas, namely Turkey, Iran and Southern Georgia. Their popularity brought them to South America, Australia, New Zealand and the Mediterranean, where they are commonly eaten raw as well as cooked.

In North America, Quince are on the specialty fruit list, with very few trees in production. Unlike apples and pears which are enjoyed right off the tree with their sweetness,  these bright yellow fruit are very hard, acidic and not naturally sweet. Instead, they are turned into marmalade, jam, jelly and preserves. To me, their flavor is similar to a guava, especially when made into jelly. They give off a wonderful perfume when ripe, close to the smell of roses, so keep a few in a bowl to fragrance the room. When cooked, they turn light pink, and their cooking liquid turns to a deep crimson hue.  If you are lucky enough to get your hands on any of them next Fall, I’ll share a few ways to make the most of them.

Quince jelly, jam and preserves are a rare treat. I found a 25 pound box at a local farm, and set out to make all three. I’m now struggling to keep a few jars for myself, as they have ended up as perfect Christmas gifts this year. The idea of giving something from the kitchen has been so much more appealing and satisfying in it’s simplicity than trudging along the retail trail.  Winter has just gotten a whole lot sweeter.

For those of us who are fully engaged with the pleasures and benefits of the jam and jelly making business, working with quince is quite rewarding. These hard, knobby fruit are tough to cut, but are full of natural pectin, and therefore, one can make jelly and jam with the same batch of fruit. For the following recipe, I give ratios of fruit to sugar. That way, you can make however much you want, depending upon your supply of quince. If you haven’t made jam or jelly before, you may need a primer. Google is great for that-try wikipedia. For those of you who do make jam and jelly, you will need to have your jars and lids ready, and won’t need any pectin.

Quince jelly and jam

To make a supply of both jam and jelly from one batch of fruit,  rub off any fuzz and debris from the fruit, and wash them in a colander. Fill a preserving pot halfway with water and a squeeze of lemon juice. Fill a medium sized saucepan with water and set it next to the pot. Cut the quince into quarters and with each quarter flat on one side, cut off the core. Now cut each quarter into 1/4″ to 1/2″ slices and put them in the preserving pot. Put the cores into the saucepan. Add any debris from the fruit- seeds, stems or ends-and add them to the saucepan. Make sure there is about an inch of water covering all the fruit in each pot. Bring both pans to a slow simmer and cook, partially covered for about an hour, or until the fruit is soft. Make sure you keep the water level above the fruit. The cores and stems liquid carry additional pectin, and you will use this to add to the fruit to make jam.

When the fruit is soft, strain the water from the fruit through cheesecloth or a muslin bag, careful not to squeeze or push any remaining liquid out as it will turn the jelly cloudy.  Now you are ready to make jelly and jam.  I used a vanilla bean to flavor my jam. It was excellent. Just cut one in half and scrape the seeds into the pot along with the pod.

For jelly-use equal parts by weight for the fruit and sugar

In a clean pot, add your measured quince liquid and sugar. Stir to dissolve and bring to a boil. Cook this mixture for about an hour, or until it has turned into a jelly state, and the color has turned crimson. Ladle into sterilized jars. Jelly will keep for about 1 year.

For jam-use 2 parts fruit to 1 part sugar by weight

Weigh and mash the cooked fruit, transfer to a clean pot, and add the sugar. Mix well, and add about 1 cup of the pectin liquid you made from the cores per 4-5 lbs of fruit. Stir well and bring to a slow simmer. Cook the jam for about 40 minutes, and stir the bottom occasionally to prevent sticking. The jam should be thick and rose colored after this time. Preserve in sterilized jars.